N°148 [CULTURE] MOOD : The rock version of tradition

Former celebrity, Ôkubo Kotoe chose to take over the family inn by giving it a new momentum.

Japan is justly famous for its hospitality industry, and its ryokan (traditional inns) [that Zoom Japan covered extensively in a previous issue] stand out for their traditional look, tatami-matted rooms, communal baths, and elaborate meals. However, Shiga’s Takarabune Onsen Yumoto Kotobuki is a very unique place where guests have a chance to bathe not only in hot water but also in sound.

The architect of this intriguing mix of hot springs and music is the inn’s young okami (proprietress and general manager), Okubo Kotoe, a former idol with a passion for performing and songwriting who has recently taken on the challenge of continuing the family tradition while making a few major reforms.

Okubo began working at Takarabune Onsen after graduating from university. However, she also pursued a successful artistic career, founding with a friend the idol unit AH in which she was in charge of songwriting. Okubo has continued performing even after AH disbanded in 2021, often singing her original songs and dancing in her work clothes, combining a pink-based kimono and obi (sashi) with Chelsea boots (her personal homage to John Lennon and the Beatles).

2023 was a big turning point in Okubo’s life as she officially became the inn’s okami, taking over from her father. She now manages reservations, serves customers, and comes up with new plans. However, the new responsibilities have not dampened her passion for music and singing. “My identity is to wear two hats,” she says. “There was a time when I stopped performing after getting married, but I don’t see why I can’t do both. After all, an artist and an okami have in common that they rack their brains and come up with different ideas to satisfy their customers and provide a friendly atmosphere.”

Takarabune Onsen Yumoto Kotobuki is located in Takashima City, on the shores of Lake Biwa. The nearest station is Omi-Takashima on the JR Kosei Line. When you get off the station, you are welcomed by a huge seven-meter-tall bronze statue of a foreign man. That’s Gulliver, Jonathan Swift’s famous character. The reason for the Gulliver statue’s installation is that Takashima operates an outdoor experience facility called Gulliver’s Travels Village. This facility was established as a place for children to interact with nature and develop a sense of adventure.

Okubo’s ryokan is a five-minute taxi ride from Omi-Takashima Station, and a shuttle service is also available for hotel guests if they make a reservation. However, if the weather is good, I recommend walking. It takes 30 minutes, but there are plenty of interesting spots along the way, including local sake breweries and the sparkling surface of Lake Biwa.

Takarabune Onsen Yumoto Kotobuki is a charming single-story Japanese-style house located right in front of a clean sandy beach that doubles as the Omi Shirahama Camping Ground. The swimming area is shallow and safe, so many families come in summer to swim in the lake.

CDs and other artist goods are sold at the front desk together with locally produced Omi rice. “One of the reasons why Omi rice is so popular is that it is grown using good water,” Okubo says. Indeed, Takashima is also known for its water. “More than 70% of Takashima is covered by forests,” she says. “The heavy snow that falls in winter melts in the spring and flows underground or into Lake Biwa, turning into water of exceptional quality.”

There are four Japanese-style rooms in the building. They can be used not only by overnight guests but also as a dining area for day-trippers. Speaking of dining, Okubo’s family is especially proud of its cuisine which is made with local specialties that include Omi beef and Biwa trout. “My father, the previous manager, is a chef and is still in charge of preparing food,” Okubo says. “We want people to know that Shiga Prefecture has plenty of delicious things, so we carefully select local ingredients.

“The trout is an endemic species of Lake Biwa and can only be tasted here. We prepare it in four different ways: broiled, marinated, simmered, and sashimi. Omi beef is served as shabu-shabu (a hotpot dish) and teppanyaki (cooked on an iron griddle). Smoked food is also another delicacy that my father is proud of. Lake fish, duck, and other Shiga-grown ingredients are smoked until they turn amber. They are truly delicious.”

No onsen-related story would be complete without mentioning bathing. At Takarabune Onsen there are two types of hot springs: a private open-air bath, and separate indoor baths for men and women. The hot springs are rich in minerals and flow directly from the source. The open-air bath Kotobuki no Yu can be reserved for 50 minutes for day trips.

“The hot springs are rich in such natural moisturizing ingredients as metasilicic acid, iron, and carbon dioxide,” Okubo says. “Original water temperature is around 50 degrees and can be enjoyed by our guests at 41 to 42 degrees. The water is cloudy, viscous and soft. It warms the body from the inside out and is expected to have benefits such as fatigue recovery and skin beautifying effects. It is one of our main attractions.”

People like Okubo-san are fast becoming a rarity in Japan as 30% of small and medium-sized businesses are now said to close down due to problems in finding successors. According to an online survey conducted by the Japan Finance Corporation Research Institute in 2023, about 30% of small and medium-sized enterprises planning to close their business in the future cited the lack of successors as the reason. Another survey conducted by Teikoku Databank in the same year revealed that out of 270,000 companies nationwide, about 146,000 firms (53.9%, the highest rate since the survey began in 2011) had the same problem.

The main reason is that the current owners either don’t have children or, more typically, their children don’t want to follow in their parents’ footsteps, and the owners cannot find a suitable successor. In 2023, for instance, the most common methods of handing over management and assets were through internal promotion (appointing unrelated executives or employees), which stood at 35.5%, and choosing among relatives (33.1%).

Okubo’s inn was founded in 1965. “My family had a house by the lake and dug a hot spring to entertain guests,” Okubo says. “The place later developed into a hot spring inn. Ever since I was little, I thought that I would take over the business someday. “I’ve always had that feeling. It wasn’t like my parents forced me to do it. I just thought it was natural. I feel like my life has been heading in that direction since I was little. Without me, Takarabune Onsen would no longer exist. And if the taste of the homemade food that has been passed down for generations were to disappear, it would be sad.”

While running a ryokan is hard work, Okubo says that overall, she enjoys her new role as okami. “I think I’m good at serving customers,” she says, “and I love the fact that our hospitality makes them happy. In the service industry, you meet your customers in person and get a direct response, like when I’m on stage performing. It’s a job where you immediately see when they go home satisfied. That’s what I enjoy the most. I’ve had customers from all over the country, and recently even from overseas. They come all the way to our little corner in the countryside. It’s fun to interact with people of all different races.”

While continuing her family’s traditional approach to hospitality, Okubo is also looking at the future, and in order to develop a new customer base, has recently added two features that are rarely seen in a ryokan. First of all, in October 2023, she set up a sauna area on the premises. This is a mixed-bathing area where guests wear swimsuits. The inside of the barrel-shaped sauna is large enough to comfortably seat 10 people. “We imported it from Estonia,” Okubo says, “where sauna culture has existed since prehistory. I’ve always thought that if I were to take over this inn, I definitely wanted to have a sauna to attract younger customers. I started planning it three years ago, and it’s finally come true.”

Another unique feature is a space near the changing room where guests can not only relax but also enjoy playing old video games and reading manga. In another corner, there is a working space equipped with network facilities. “You can work on your computer, broadcast live, and do anything you want,” Okubo says. “A ryokan is a very traditional inn, but here at my place I want to express the borderless connection between people of different ages and with different tastes and interests. At Takarabune Onsen, guests can forget about gender and generational barriers and just relax and have a good time.”

Okubo’s latest addition to the inn’s facilities is possibly even wilder. Always eager to challenge the notion of what a ryokan should look like, she has gone one step further and fulfilled her long-cherished dream of setting up a music studio. EXTRA is a mirrored studio, so you can also practice dance moves and stage performances.

“The combination of ‘music and hot springs’ has been well received” she says. “At first, I thought that it would be mainly popular with youngsters – for example, university students using it for band training camps – but we also have many older customers who stay here with their friends and spend the time playing together. In any case, I’m the one who uses this studio the most (laughs).”

While many guests bring their own instruments, the studio is fully equipped with guitars, basses and drums. Reservations are required, and there is also a plan that includes studio use and accommodation, but you don’t have to stay at the ryokan to rent the space.

“Until now, I have performed live several times a month,” Okubo says. “I’ve just had a baby, and in the near future I will probably be too busy to devote time to performing, but I definitely don’t want to quit music. On the contrary, I want to turn this inn into a place that entertains guests with music. My husband is also a guitarist, so when we welcome guests, we might play a song together, or we might plan to have live music during meals. I want to make this a sort of rock and roll inn.

“I also want to use my connections to organize events and invite other singers and musicians. I’m sure that our guests will cherish the opportunity to interact with artists in a very casual atmosphere in a Japanese-style room or on the lakeside. As for me, there’s nothing better than singing my songs in front of an audience.”

Gianni Simone

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To learn more about this topic check out our other articles :

N°148 [CULTURE] More than a story about water

N°148 [FOCUS] Shiga, Happiness laboratory